Sunday, May 13, 2007

"The beginning of everything"




At least that is how they like to call it here. "The end of the world, beginning of everything". How true this is I don't want to debate. I am pleased with the fact that we made it despite warnings of many backpackers that the cold would do us in. Softies...We arrived after a bustrack of 14 hours from Puerto Natales.
We found this peculiar but pleasant hostel a bit uphill, which gives us the opportunity to a marvellous frontal harbour view and a magnificient rear-view of the m
ountains covered in snow. It is a very pleasant town. However the people are not very friendly (Argentinians are known for their stuck-up attitude). I got myself in a nasty fight in an Internetcafé. I only changed a headphone from a computer and the owner acted like I just started worldwar III, and due to my reaction in an Italian manner, I have been banned from that store. This is another record, banned at the end of the world. It feels quite harsh I would like to add. Thank god they closed the very famous prison that we visited later that day, otherwise I would have seen it from behind bars. No, it is not all glamour, backpacking...As for this penitentiary, in 1902 they moved it from "isla de las estados" (an island just offshore, circumstances were too extreme) to Ushuaia, don´t think it changed much for the prisoners. (You can see how it looked on the photo´s). I am happy it is a museum now....




In the harbour they have lots of boats, working ones, black non-working ones and I´ll bet they all have a story to tell. It makes the look of the harbour a bit gloomey at times. There is a lot to tell about the town, how settlers first founded it whilst trying to convert the Yámana (the Indian species that lived here in the most southern part) after Spain already did it´s colonial "duty". But now, again it´s tourism that made it how it is. In the museum the Falkland war (Malvinas Islands) is heavily exposed. I think the Argentinians were very hurt in their pride. There are no flights to the Falkland Islands and they do not mention the name "Falkland", just Malvinas..So far for the history lesson. As to culture, yesterday evening we went out to witness how the cold does not kill the passion of the tango. In a large, bingolike restaurant hall, locals dressed up for the evening, showed their finest moves. Age nor size mattered. Legs swaying and curling in the air, faces with total concentration. Chest to chest, heads bowed forward, the key of the tango...It was a fine night...until we had to dance in our mountain-shoes and michelin (8 layers of clothes) outfit. I´ll wait for Buenos Aires...

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